Rolex C&I Bracelets, USA Made Oyster and Jubilee Bracelets
Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 11:43 pm
C&I Oyster (USA made, rivet bracelets)
The USA Rolex Oyster, rivet bracelets ( so called due to the distinct rivet heads used to attach the links) were made from the 1950s through the end of the 1970s – possibly 1979 being the last year. There are no end link numbers for the C&I bracelets and no model numbers stamped on the bracelets. (The end links are permanently attached to the bracelets by crimping them on at the last link.) There are markings on one of the clasp blades that do help identify the C&I bracelet. When examining the clasp, look for the ROLEX stamp, Rolex coronet and the C&I logo on one of the blades. Normally, to the right of the C&I stamp are the date stamps which are two digits indicating the year of production for the bracelet - i.e. 59, 68, 69, 78 etc. Most of the time, you will also find another number (possibly two) stamped near the year which designates a month, i.e. 5, 7, 1 etc. The number “1” would correspond to January, “2” for February and so on. A couple photos of the rivet C&I bracelet are attached below.
USA Jubilee (oval link bracelets)
There were at least a couple manufacturers for the USA Jubilees and they are noted for their distinct, solid, oval-link shape – unlike the folded Jubilee links used on the Swiss 6251 Jubilees. Most USA oval-link clasps do not have a date code on the clasp although I have seen it a couple times. When they are dated, it can be found on the top edge of the clasp blade that does not have any additional stampings, trademarks or other writings or script. There are no end link numbers or model numbers on these Jubilee bracelets except occasionally you will find a 50 stamp on the left ear of the end links. (This 50 stamping is considered to indicate end links for a GMT 1675 although I haven't found anything to document this stamping as belonging to the GMT 1675 Jubilee bracelet. As mentioned in another thread here on the forum regarding the Jubilee bracelets, the SWISS 6251 Jubilee bracelet comes with 50 stamped end links found on the right ear of the end link. Due to the GMT 1675 SWISS Jubilee 6251 having 50 end links, I believe many collectors have accepted the fact that the USA Jubilee with the 50 stamped on the left ear of the end link indicates a GMT Jubilee although most GMT 1675s with the USA Jubilee do not have any stampings on their end links. For me, I consider the USA GMT jubilee bracelets to be correct with or without the 50 stamped USA end links.)
There are two variations of clasps, the first variation was used during the 1960s and has a larger coronet with the coronet remaining completely on the clasp and distinct gaps between the circular points of the coronet and the arms of the coronet. The second variation has a protruding, smaller coronet that protrudes off the end of the clasp. Both styles are depicted below. I believe the first variation was used until sometime during the later half of the 1960s when the manufacturer transitioned to the second variation of the Jubilee clasp. The actual oval links look the same on both Jubilee bracelets regardless of the clasp.
(CLICK ON THE PHOTOS TO BYPASS THE SCROLLING BARS. CLICK THEM A SECOND TIME TO REDUCE THE PHOTO SIZE.)
The USA Rolex Oyster, rivet bracelets ( so called due to the distinct rivet heads used to attach the links) were made from the 1950s through the end of the 1970s – possibly 1979 being the last year. There are no end link numbers for the C&I bracelets and no model numbers stamped on the bracelets. (The end links are permanently attached to the bracelets by crimping them on at the last link.) There are markings on one of the clasp blades that do help identify the C&I bracelet. When examining the clasp, look for the ROLEX stamp, Rolex coronet and the C&I logo on one of the blades. Normally, to the right of the C&I stamp are the date stamps which are two digits indicating the year of production for the bracelet - i.e. 59, 68, 69, 78 etc. Most of the time, you will also find another number (possibly two) stamped near the year which designates a month, i.e. 5, 7, 1 etc. The number “1” would correspond to January, “2” for February and so on. A couple photos of the rivet C&I bracelet are attached below.
USA Jubilee (oval link bracelets)
There were at least a couple manufacturers for the USA Jubilees and they are noted for their distinct, solid, oval-link shape – unlike the folded Jubilee links used on the Swiss 6251 Jubilees. Most USA oval-link clasps do not have a date code on the clasp although I have seen it a couple times. When they are dated, it can be found on the top edge of the clasp blade that does not have any additional stampings, trademarks or other writings or script. There are no end link numbers or model numbers on these Jubilee bracelets except occasionally you will find a 50 stamp on the left ear of the end links. (This 50 stamping is considered to indicate end links for a GMT 1675 although I haven't found anything to document this stamping as belonging to the GMT 1675 Jubilee bracelet. As mentioned in another thread here on the forum regarding the Jubilee bracelets, the SWISS 6251 Jubilee bracelet comes with 50 stamped end links found on the right ear of the end link. Due to the GMT 1675 SWISS Jubilee 6251 having 50 end links, I believe many collectors have accepted the fact that the USA Jubilee with the 50 stamped on the left ear of the end link indicates a GMT Jubilee although most GMT 1675s with the USA Jubilee do not have any stampings on their end links. For me, I consider the USA GMT jubilee bracelets to be correct with or without the 50 stamped USA end links.)
There are two variations of clasps, the first variation was used during the 1960s and has a larger coronet with the coronet remaining completely on the clasp and distinct gaps between the circular points of the coronet and the arms of the coronet. The second variation has a protruding, smaller coronet that protrudes off the end of the clasp. Both styles are depicted below. I believe the first variation was used until sometime during the later half of the 1960s when the manufacturer transitioned to the second variation of the Jubilee clasp. The actual oval links look the same on both Jubilee bracelets regardless of the clasp.
(CLICK ON THE PHOTOS TO BYPASS THE SCROLLING BARS. CLICK THEM A SECOND TIME TO REDUCE THE PHOTO SIZE.)